Wednesday 26 October 2016

ESPnews: Victoria Beckham for Target Spring Line / BFC & Annual British Fashion Awards / Richard Nicoll


Hot off the presses of last week's WGSN newsletter (Worth Global Style Network), comes the news that our own VB will be designing a limited-edition, cost effective line for the value brand, ranging from $6-$70, with most under $40 and not only that, but she will also be foraying into childrenswear, in honour of the line she was inspired to create during her last pregnancy, and daughter Harper turning five in Spring.

The womenswear collection will follow in her signature style of sleek, fluid lines, and the 'Victoria Beckham for Target' range will "reflect the essence of the Victoria, Victoria Beckham line, including original designs and inspiration from iconic silhouettes" in the apparel and accessories available April 9th for women, girls, young children and babies across Target's 1,800 bricks and mortar stores, as well as online. Some of the childrenswear will also be available internationally and via Beckham's website store.

The over 200-piece collection will range in sizes XS-3X for women, and NB-XL for girls, children and babies. Colours are described as pastels, bright blasts and spring prints; and described as "feminine and functional", to reflect Victoria's commitment to quality craftsmanship.

Target said that standout pieces include easy-to-wear dresses, rompers and playful tops and bottoms for women, with corresponding styles for girls, toddler and baby (WGSN).

"Working with Target has been a really exciting process, and this partnership allows us to share the essence of Victoria, Victoria Beckham with more people than ever before...I was inspired to create the Victoria, Victoria Beckham line when I was pregnant with Harper, and since its launch, the category has evolved into an established lifestyle collection. With both the line and my daughter turning five, I felt it was the perfect time to extend into a more accessible price point, and to celebrate both milestones by opening up the range to include childrenswear for the first time," said Victoria.

Target Chief Merchandising Officer Mark Tritton added: "Victoria Beckham is synonymous with impeccable style, and she's known around the globe for her distinct point of view as a designer. It's been incredibly exciting to see how Victoria's brand has evolved over the years, and we are thrilled that Target's guests will be a part of that journey with this latest must-have collaboration."


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British Fashion Awards 2016 Nominations

Supermodel and IT Girl Karlie Kloss announced the nominees for the annual British Fashion Awards on behalf of The British Fashion Council, live from partners, the Swarovski Atelier in LA yesterday afternoon, and it was as controversial as ever. Here they are - judge for yourself:

International Ready-To-Wear Designer of the Year:
Alessandro Michele for Gucci
Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga
Donatella Versace for Versace
Jonathan Anderson for Loewe
Ricardo Tisci for Givenchy

Anya Hindmarch SS16 - 'Apophenia' Collection


International Accessories Designer of the Year:


Alessandro Michele for Gucci
Anya Hindmarch MBE for Anya Hindmarch
Johnny Coca for Mulberry
Jonathan Anderson for Loewe
Stuart Vevers for Coach




International Model of the Year:
Adwoa Aboah
Bella Hadid
Gigi Hadid
Kendall Jenner
Lineisy Montero

International Urban Luxury Brand of the Year:
Adidas
Gosha Rubchinskiy
Off-White
Palace
Vetements

International Business Leader of the Year:

Kanye West and Lourde wear Vetements


Adrian Joffe for Comme Des Garรงons & Dover Street Market
Christopher Bailey MBE for Burberry
Guram Gvasalia for Vetements
Marco Bizzarri for Gucci
Stephanie Sassi for Valentino

British Brand of the Year:
Alexander McQueen
Burberry
Christopher Kane
Erdem
Stella McCartney

British Womenswear Designer of the Year:
Christopher Kane for Christopher Kane
Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson
Roksanda Ilincic for Roksanda
Sarah Burton for McQueen
Simone Rocha for Simone Rocha

British Menswear Designer of the Year:

Grace Wales Bonner AW15



Craig Green for Craig Green
Grace Wales Bonner for Wales Bonner
Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson
Tom Ford for Tom Ford
Dame Vivienne Westwood for Vivienne Westwood





British Emerging Talent of the Year:
Alessandra Rich
Charles Jeffrey
Faustine Steinmetz
Molly Goddard
Self Portrait

Well I don’t know about you, but I found quite a few sledgehammer worthy shocks in those. As well as some more run-of-the-mill, expected names, there were a number of omissions, or snubs, if you really want to stir the pot. Anya Hindmarch MBE for International Accessories Designer did not raise a brow after the sophistication of her 2015-16 lines, in particular the brands collection that you may have seen me highlight if you’re an Instagram follower; just like there’s no shock in nods for Adrian Joffe at Comme des Garcons & Dover Street Market, or Guram Gvasalia at Vetements for International Business Leader, when you consider this year’s success in both corners.

Stella McCartney’s omission from the Womenswear, and International Read-To-Wear Designer categories did make me take pause, until I saw her perennial listing for British Brand; and it didn’t surprise me in the slightest that Grace Wales Bonner has been nominated for Menswear Designer of the Year for instance, although I had expected to see AV Robertson under the Emerging Talent banner, after her success at London Fashion Week AW16 and since. However, I had the exact opposite opinion regarding Kendall Jenner’s nomination for International Model of the Year – I mean, is that really justified, considering she’s only been in the game five minutes, and yet you have the likes of Bella Hadid who has worked her hind end off over the past twelve months establishing her brand? Is this not a move spurred on by attempts at popularity and remaining 'trendy', less than recognising talent?

After all, the criteria for nomination states: ‘A male or female model that has contributed most to the international fashion scene in the past year and had demonstrated influence beyond the catwalk’. Well unless we’re talking about the TV show that she is a part of, which has boosted sales for her cosmetic and fashion brands, is there really evidence to justify this nomination? We will revisit on 7 December, after the awards take place, but in the meantime, I’d love to hear your thoughts on the topic, please do share below.
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Richard Nicoll Dies at 39

Richard Nicoll
Curating over 30 collections spanning Ready-To-Wear, Womenswear, Menswear, Resort and Pre-Fall seasons; London-born Australian, Richard Nicoll died from a sudden cardiac arrest at his home in Sydney, Friday morning. Due to take up the helm of Creative Director at Adidas in Germany next year, further cementing his love for, and affinity with, athleisure; Nicholl inspired a wealth of condolences from the fashion community for his work over the last almost 10 years, since he graduated from Central Saint Martins M.A. in 2006, as one of the all-stars who were credited with reviving London Fashion Week for the international fashion community, along with Jonathan Saunders, Roksanda Ilincic, and Christopher Kaneall alumni of the late esteemed Professor Louise Wilson OBE; who went on to create their own labels around the same time.

Richard Nicoll AW13


Having had his entire 2002 graduate collection purchased by Dolce and Gabbana; he continued with his own label, championed by the likes of Emma Stone, Keira Knightly and Sienna Miller, until 2014, when he shelved it to collaborate with high street brand Jack Wills until earlier this year, followed by numerous local Australian brands to date.







On that sad note, that's it for this week's news. Part Two of my London Fashion Week series will be up later today.

Until the next...
ES










Information sourced from WGSN. Images sourced from The Guardian, Rachel Chandler, and Vogue.com.

Monday 24 October 2016

'Joanne' by Lady Gaga - THE BIG REVIEW in the ESPspotlight on MusicMonday


So here's something I never thought that I'd be doing...

Up there with dying my hair green and professing love for Elvis Presley; I never thought that I would be reviewing a Lady Gaga album...the things we do to grow, eh? Joanne is apparently the singer's fifth studio album (huh, thought there would've been more - kudos on the success). I checked out the deluxe version (natch), and found...well, pretty much what I expected from a Lady Gaga album.

Don't get me wrong, no disrespect to the Lady, I thought that she was pants until I saw her perform live once at the piano, and she blew my mind with her performance. And let's not forget her recent defence of alleged sexually abused star Kesha - for that, she will always have my respect; but if I suddenly professed to be her greatest fan, I think we all know that I would be lying through my pearly whites. That said - let's get into this thing...

The set opens with Diamond Heart, a rock song about a young, gogo dancing female who appears to use her body to survive after being raped. The story isn't pretty, juxtaposingly, it's quite gritty in fact, as she talks of no longer being a good girl, after finding out that they get nowhere. A fast-paced opener it is, and if you played it loud - which I did not - I'm sure that it would make you sit up and pay attention. The grit in Gaga's voice matches the sentiment of the song perfectly. A-YO - definitely a future single - is a funky rock track that talks about not being able to contain the desire to get a lucky guy going, before testing out the mirror on his ceiling. It's actually quite catchy, and you can hear the potential hit in the making.

The title track Joanne is a folksy guitar plea to choose life at the brink of death. A somewhat strange song for an album lead, it's a letter to a loved one to let them know how much they are needed and will be missed. Now John Wayne, hmmm, what can I say about this...It took me several listens, and I must say, that I'm still not sure that I really got the essence of this Pop-Rock song? I'm going to try to grab it before it floats over my head one more time...

So essentially, a couple are on the road and he's her 'John', but he's not really what she's looking for, she craves a strong man that she just hasn't come across yet, so she ditches him and tries some other literal 'Johns' ie. customers, on for size; but none match up to the ideal that she's looking for in her mind, and so she carries on her search, into the sunset? Have a listen someone please, and do tell me - does that about sum it up? Who knows; the one thing that I can tell you, is that this is another potential single, and I see a pretty decent video following to boot. The production is also pretty good, with a strong guitar hook taking the lead throughout.

Dancin' In Circles is the Pop equivalent of RnB singer Tweet's massive hit Ooops (Oh My), in my humble opinion. Singing about 'touching herself', pretending she is her object of  interest, this isn't something that we haven't heard before, but because of the mainstream name, I can see it becoming a lot bigger than its predecessor. To give the track its dues, it does have a catchy beat, and the production on it is nice and tidy - on a good day, it would almost be my cup of tea (but not today). Lead single Perfect Illusion caused intense chart heat when it was released in early September. The 'little monsters' went cray for the Pop song lamenting over being fooled into thinking that she was in love, when in reality it was...well, what it says on the tin. Again, catchy; easy to see why it was selected for the lead single.



Million Reasons is the next track to take the charts by storm, currently sitting comfortably at number 34 in this, its first week of entry. A nice change of pace, it's a big ballad, end of the road, break up song, pining over the million reasons to leave a relationship, whilst not really wanting to; instead wanting to be given one to stay. The piano backing, strings and guitar are a nice touch after all the Pop Rock we've been inundated with up to this point. Sinner's Prayer feels like something straight out of a Western. I honestly cannot decide whether this is a make believe moment, or just one of the padded bar lunacy-like type I attributed her with before I knew she had talent. Gaga is the Sinner and she wants to unburden her conscience to one person only; her travelling companion, who doesn't realise that he's travelling with a tramp (her words), and has hedged all his bets on her, unlike her little sister, who is the marrying kind that he's looking for. Her word in general isn't worth much, but her Sinner's Prayer? Well that's good as gold...

Come To Mama is a Gaga-esque equivalent to We Are The World. It's a plea to 'love one another, and stop telling each other how to live'. She begs that we stop pigeon-holing each other to a Folksy-Country beat, and that sisters and brothers should return to the times when we all loved one another; after all - it's not that long since we all lived in a jungle...she says. Featuring Florence Welch (of Florence and the Machine); Hey Girl is surprisingly listenable! An ode to friends that you can rely on, the song talks about knowing you can rely on each other to pull your hair back when you're upchucking, and get you home when you're not in fit state to do the job yourself. Soulful, with an almost RnB tinge; it's the most palatable song of the album so far, by a mile!

Angel Down is another decent offering. A balladic political reference to those losing their lives on the streets due to indifference and a general lack of respect for human life. It's hard to dispute a socially conscious, sensible Gaga (when she's not implying that we're Tarzan and Jane). Grigio Girls is a salute for those who have graduated from Lambrini. Celebrating the option of drinking your cares away, it's an ode to getting drunk with your mates when times get tough. Honky tonk Just Another Day is a love song with a difference. She sings of being the emotional woman that he knows, but that doesn't negate how much she loves him on this, Just Another Day.

Album closer Angel Down (Work Tape) is a more acoustic version of the earlier song, that actually works better than the original, because her voice is gritty, and the emotion conveyed sells the song much better than on the polished original. This is the Gaga that made me sit up and take notice on that awards show. She emanates a pain in the single verse that also further emphasises the narrative and makes the song a winner.

I reiterate, I'm not going to pretend to suddenly be Gaga's biggest fan; but Joanne has a few rare moments that demand you respect her as an artist, and after listening to them a few times over - I finally do.

Joanne is available from all independent retailers now.

Thanks for reading folks - this was a tough one to write! Let me know if you share or dispute my thoughts, but don't forget to explain why! YOUR stage is below.

Until the next...
ES

Wednesday 19 October 2016

MusicMonday WaveRunner Duo: '24K Magic' - Bruno Mars / 'Starboy' - The Weeknd ft. Daft Punk


Now if I'm honest, The Weeknd's 'Starboy' was actually my selection for last week's #WaveRunner, but if you'll recall, technical glitches, and what I will now recognise as health hang ups got in my determined way. Not to be this week, my friends, Not. To. Be! Despite the fact that I have been laid up since last Wednesday when I literally froze in the middle of writing a publicly promised piece for you. I can only apologise, my friends, but even today will be light; because it's taking every ounce of strength I have, just to be upright long enough to write this.

Since it's 7 days Bruno Mars senior, we'll go age before beauty on this occasion - based solely on Mars' sisters, and not the long sock-wearing entourage in his latest video (no excuse Bruno, none whatsoever). Released on 30th September, with so many of this week's favourites, 'Starboy' is the latest release from a hitboy crooner that frankly, unlike Bruno, can do no wrong! Taken from his forthcoming album, 'Starry' (out 25th Nov.); the track entered the national charts at number 5, and jumped 3 places in the space of one week. Supermodel and 'It' Girl Bella Hadid's boyfriend is doing rather well...at least we assume that's why he killed himself and emerged as a new and improved version in his latest video?

Essentially telling the world that he has no competition, he's rich, successful, and has a lot of flashy cars; there's not really much else to share as far as the song's storyline goes. Creepy sacrilege aside; The Weeknd basically spends the entire video destroying the old him, and his awards, discs, wardrobe - apparently every trace of his former self - except the cars (they're referenced throughout the whole song, thus it would appear that they're important). Revealing what I like to call his 'Maxwell Moment' (do we remember the 'Pretty Wings' emergence after The Haircut?) what confuses me, is how we are meant to tell if he's good or evil - murdering his former self one minute, and smashing the place up with a neon crucifix the next? Answers on a postcard please...



Now I don't know who he's dating (yet); but I do know that Bruno Mars has been keeping things quiet, going underground shortly after releasing his last single, 'Uptown Funk' with Mark Ronson. With his new album also set to be released this year (date TBC); it's safe to say that all of our ears are in for a treat before year's end.

'24K Magic' is as big and brashy as it is smooth and synth sexy. Rounding up his amigos for a trip on the private jet; the boys are hitting Vegas for their weekend, and everybody is about to know that they're coming through. Unfortunately, there's very little vocal display, as Mars mainly raps throughout the track (yes, he can do that too); but when those flashes of vocals do come through, we're reminded of who we've missed for the last few years, and we're glad to hear he's back - despite the rather odd dance routine, and gratuitous booty shots (random females, not Mars).



Firmly expect to see this storming the charts the moment it becomes available; Mars has already set the world alight with this, the sassiest of comebacks (can men be sassy? Sidenote: I shall find out).

'Starboy' is available now at all independent retailers.
'24K Magic' is available now at all independent retailers.

That's all for this week folks...Nah, I'm just kidding, sick or not, I will bring you content worth reading, that was my promise to you - although I can't promise that some of it may not be gibberish. I babble when I'm sick, it's a habit, so shoot me.

Anywhoo, I'm off, as that fever is starting to climb...See you soon for a very special LostInMusic segment - dedicated to the late, great, Rod Temperton, who tragically lost his battle with cancer last week.

Until the next...
ES

Monday 17 October 2016

'Mad Love' by JoJo: THE BIG REVIEW on MusicMonday


It's rare that I will part with my hard-earned cash for an album anymore.

Music is not at it's best calibre, and if my monthly music app rentals are going to let me listen to albums for free anyway, as often as I want, then what is really the point? Being the connoisseur that I consider myself to be however, when a stone cold winner comes along, by one of my favourite artists, then I will readily part with my coinage, and insist upon the deluxe edition. Let me introduce you to my latest purchase.

Mad Love is Joanna Levesque's - better known to one and all as JoJo's - first studio album in ten years due to label sagas and woes, and the offering is well worth the wait. 15 tracks of audio goodness defy her haters and naysayers with talents that they doubted she still had. Let's get into the album...

The set opens with Music; a touching tribute to the tour de force that has gotten her through the best and hardest of times, including the tragic loss of her father. It's sentimental, sombre, and sets the tone for a big show to follow. I Can Only is a hard follow that features new name on the block Alessia Cara. Defending their choices in life, love and leisure; the ladies refuse to apologise for being themselves and exercising their God-given rights to be themselves. Definitely a feel good feminist track, it's a nice setup for the young woman who spends far too much time fielding impudent comments and remarks about things that really aren't anyone's business but her own. F**k Apologies is the big single of the album. Featuring Wiz Khalifa; the track's production is reminiscent of Khalifa's other recent collaborative hit - Sucker For Pain from the Suicide Squad movie soundtrack.




FAB featuring Flipmode Squad Rapper Remy Ma, centres on a topic that both women, and most people, in fact, can relate to; "when they smile in your face, but behind you it ain't well wishes..." offers up crucial insight into why the singer is so disgusted. Ma offers the perfect topping on this cake; considering the marked decrease in her circle following her recent legal woes. The title track is a Bluesy ballad that suits JoJo's voice to the ground. Mad Love is a desperate love letter to a paramour, who may not be in the best position to reciprocate. It's a slow descent into madness, and we're just happy to come along for the ride.

Vibe is a dancehall-lite track that invites a new friend around for private fun and games which, if they want to pass judgement on they should keep to themselves, because to share would be killing her 'vibe'. Honest is a dance track with trance affectations. Confronting a potential new lover about their inability to be real in a real heat of the moment situation. Calling their ability to act on basic human impulses into question; JoJo says don't hate her for having the strength of conviction to not only face the truth but say it out loud and proud - you Go my Sister Girl!

Like This is where things get sexy and, if you haven't heard any of JoJo's mixtapes in between this and her last album (frankly, where have you been), then you might be forgiven (by someone) for thinking that this is an uncomfortable step away from her 15-year-old, The High Road persona - and you would be (even further) mistaken. Jojo has been getting her multi-octave freak on for quite some time, and in the words of LL Cool J, she's been 'doin it, and doin it, and doin it well'. That's why when she talks about her footprints on the ceiling in Edibles, you don't do much more than raise an eyebrow, fan yourself and tell the speakers, "well alright, now"; because in all honesty she simply solidified the fact that (not so) Babygirl gets down...




Black dress wearing, red High Heels walking, JoJo is out the door, because she's been cheated on, and she is understandably pissed (I mean for all we know, she put her back out, or pulled something in all those positions she talked about in Edibles...).  I Am is where things get Rocky. It's a doubtful empowerment song, where she reassures herself that despite her self-critique, she is worthy of love, and beautiful; the typical type of self-doubt that a wronged woman goes through, when she tries to understand why a man cheats.

Clovers is where we go back to a touch of the Dance vibe. The vocals - as on every song - are exceptional. About finding her sense of self at the brink of madness, and finding her closure on the whole depressing situation, she exhibits strength from her every pore. Reckless is a slowed down apology to a young ex sex toy (it's unclear whether or not he was ever actually a boyfriend), for using him and leading him astray until she took his virginity. Good Thing is the Club track of the album, and I personally foresee it being huge on the circuit. A thank you in recognition of good love, it's a perfectly polished, solidly produced track that has every ingredient for doing well.




Closer Rise Up is a call to action to strengthen yourself in anticipation of meeting the requirements to receive a nourishing love that will benefit you and the receiver. Guiding the listener to use her experiences as fodder for their own, to help them avoid the bad times and pain. It's a great, absolutely massive choral finish to a solid return that I suspect will flourish atop the charts for sometime, as fans show JoJo how much she's been missed, and how when it comes to her, industry, peers and public alike have got nothing for her but Mad Love.

Mad Love is available now from all Independent Retailers (I've got my digital, I'm about to go and order my hard copy). Alternatively, stream here straight from JoJo's Spotify account until your heart's content!

Until the next...
ES

Monday 10 October 2016

MusicMonday: LostInMusic - Rod Temperton Retrospective


Rod Temperton was a lyrical Norse deity.

One sixth of the band Heatwave - who I grew up on, even though his songs had made the band famous, he had left and gone on to become one third of a dream writing team for the legendary Michael Jackson, all before I was born - their Soul / Disco / Funk sound was like nothing else being done in the music industry at that time, except maybe by the likes of Earth, Wind and Fire.

Little did Temperton - the white guy from Cleethorpes in Lincolnshire, writing and playing black Soul hits - know, but he was going to change the course of musical history, by writing one of the most successful songs of all time. Now pay attention here folks, because something will soon happen that you won't see often...I am about to eat humble pie. Before that though, I would really like you to enjoy some of this amazing man's legacy whilst I stall *ahem* find the right words to continue this tribute. Here are just a few of my favourites...









So as I was saying, the iconic man picked up a pen, and inked some of the greatest songs in Soul / Disco / Funk history. Heatwave was the latest of several bands that he joined, although his most famous. Writing all of the songs for the band's 1977 debut album 'Too Hot To Handle', earning them a UK No.2 for their monster third single, 'Boogie Nights' (described by Temperton to be "the most universal song I've written"); their fourth being arguably their most famous - 'Always and Forever'. Shockingly, the beautiful ballad only made it into the UK Top 10 (#18 on the Billboard charts), despite it's huge popularity. Temperton repeated his success with Heatwave's second album 'Central Heating' just a year later, when 'The Groove Line' gave the band another Billboard Top 10 hit



Rod Temperton in front with his Heatwave bandmates

Leaving the band in the same year to focus solely on songwriting (although still providing Heatwave with a steady flow of material); it was then that the legendary producer Quincy Jones snapped him up to join the songwriting trio known as the 'A Team', comprising the two of them, and Sound Engineer, Bruce Swedien. Also taking on solo projects for other artists like Ms. Aretha Franklin, Patti Austin, James Ingram, Siedah Garrett, Jeffrey Osborne, Karen Carpenter, Mica Paris, and many more that even I didn't know about until researching this piece!

Here's where things get messy. My lasting memory will forever be of Rod Temperton behind the scenes of the Making The Video recording for 'Thriller' (before the TV show was even an idea in anybody's mind); up until four years ago, I had had that video since I was in single figures, and being the kind of music dork that used to read the credits of absolutely every song, I'm quite certain that I remember there being something about Rod Temperton sharing the writing credits of 'Thriller' with MJ...and even went so far as to post a statement to that effect on Facebook and Twitter stating what I thought was a fact - only it appears that was not the case. Rod Temperton has sole writing credits for 'Thriller', and I was...not correct. There, I said it, it's written here for all the world to read, and I can't take it back...happy?!

Moving swiftly on, I was surprised to learn that Temperton was nominated for the Best Original Song Oscar in 1986, for 'Miss Celie's Blues', co-written (see, he co-wrote sometimes *pokes tongue*) with Lionel Richie and Quincy Jones for the movie adaptation of The Color Purple, and wrote five songs for the Billy Crystal movie 'Running Scared's soundtrack in the same year.

Rod Temperton's talent is a HUGE loss to the music world, and the gaping cavern left behind is one that will never be healed. He will never be forgotten.

Sincerest condolences to his wife Kathy and everyone else who truly feels his loss.

That's all for this week folks, dependent upon the state of my recovery, I hope to be back here with you on Wednesday - drop by, or follow the ESintheP Facebook Page for updates.

Until the next...
ES












Photo courtesy of www.dayton.com

Wednesday 5 October 2016

WearItWednesday THE BIG REVIEW in the ESPspotlight: LONDON FASHION WEEK (Part One)


This was it. This was The Big Leagues.


Three events down, five times out in the last (almost) three years, and I was back inside the hallowed halls of the Freemason's. Doctors told me once that I wasn't going to be well enough to continue my professional activities, and for a while, I almost believed them. But then one day, I decided that I would like to try some things - nothing too extraordinary - just enough to bring me back to present day, and suddenly...look where I am.

Rushing to make my first show on Day 1, which was the Ones To Watch Award winners, selected by Fashion Scout, time was tight as one of my new Carers and I arrived at Waterloo. To be sure that I did not miss the beginning of the show since I would be coming from so far away this time (I lived in South London the last time I attended, nice and accessible), I jumped in a taxi with my new Carer, a young Romanian called Ana who was not only going to her first fashion show, but was joining me for her first day on the job, so I wasn't the only one on an adventure!

Being in a wheelchair now, I didn't know what the building's pre-arrangements for the disabled were, and so I've found the best approach to be pre-warning people that I am coming and that I cannot be alone (people tend to get a tad panicky when they see a tremor attack in action without warning). Having done that with organisers POP PR a few times over, I was surprised when the security staff that I reported to didn't know that I was coming, and thus hadn't allotted a space for me. A somewhat surly man who seemed to think that I turned up willy nilly, was a little brusque with me about finding a spot to put us. Spotting my POP contact, the ever stunning Portia as we were led up the runway, I stopped to butt in and say hello on the way; risking the imminent wrath of the burly older man in the security guard's uniform. After exchanging our greeting, I hurriedly followed the unhappy looking man to the top of the runway, to right where the models would return (to exit).

Nail-bitingly terrified that I was going to be in the way, I asked if he was sure he wanted us there, would I not be blocking the models? The tense guard informed me that had he known that I was coming, he could have found a better place to put me, but no-one had told him. Explaining that I did do my due diligence in advance, Burly's features seemed to soften, and he became a bit kinder before he left us. Afraid the show would start any second, I reminded Ana of what I was going to need her to do as we were doing it. The sweet girl of 24, got me settled and went into my 'Go Bag' to get the camera and everything else I would need for the show. Before I knew it though, Burly was back, and telling us not to get too comfortable, because he was going to move us across the runway.

Now more terrified than ever, I let Ana get into the second row, before I tried to squash my 120kg wheelchair into the tiny, non-existent space at the start of the FROW; bothering some very kind and friendly young ladies, who offered to help (code for: I caused a commotion and brought attention to myself). Naturally, the wheels on my chair got stuck in the space between the wall, a sudden dip in the floor, and the benches. Despite several attempts to manoeuvre myself out of it, it just didn't work. Burly tried pulling on my chair, to no avail, and before you knew it, the lights dimmed, and Burly sped off backstage! Seeing my rigid armrest stick out in the way of the narrow path where I was quite sure each model was going to bang into it and dislocate a hip bone, which would of course poke through their side and get blood all over the super expense ensembles, when I couldn't even afford to arrange a payment plan for a button...


Trying to put my professional face on since Olympic diver Tom Daley was sat directly opposite me with his freshly bleached hair, it was all I could do not to scream as the first model emerged and I pictured her protruding hip bone; add to that the fact that she was wearing pastels, so the blood would definitely stain. And then I took in the designs...Ana Ljubinkovic was up first.

Ana Ljubinkovic


Ana Ljubinkovic
The initial thought that came to mind as I watched the first design take to the runway, was ice cream. I had visions of the unusual pastel creations being worn in a west end parlour chain with five hundred flavours. Later, it would be suggested to me that they could also be pictured as futuristic space uniforms, which I could also totally see. The other thing that I couldn't get over were the shapes; each more unorthodox than the last. Not for the average body type, it was easy to see Ljubinkovic's vision for how the garments would sit on the perfect form; precisely cut and made to stand out. Despite the muted colours and abstract shapes, the uniform collection was a smart, clean-cut one, with wearable separates masked by the avant garde presentation; consisting of tops, skirts, shorts, capri pants and minidresses, the twists came not in the peplum shaped detailing on the sleeves, waists or hips, but in cookie colour cut outs, or wings with exaggerated curves. The sexy air was added by what was taken away. The hint of skin as opposed to the exposed; but make no mistake - each detail was out of this world.

Anissa Aida


Anissa Aida
I would later meet Aida and declare her the winner for the nicest designer personality award. As for her creations however, I would have to declare that they weren't my cup of char. Although a clear winner for being in keeping with the denim trend, what I liked about them - apart from what looked like a great option for my next work bag - was that they reminded me of the Orient. I could see workers in rice paddies wearing these, but they wouldn't be my selection for a day to day wardrobe, barring a few pieces that I could dress up with other options. I don't know whether that was the look that she was going for, having never managed to find an opportunity to corner her and discuss the collection, but that was definitely what I took away from her collection of separates, which were very loose fitting, and androgynous. For those looking for casual comfort, then I would say that this is the collection for you; sleeves were either elbow or cuff length in shirts and dresses that emanate laid-back wear. Asymmetrical lengths were a note of interest, as was the colour scheme of denim blue, light grey and white. I appreciated the thought process, however I just wasn't in love with the results.

Billie Jacobina


Billie Jacobina
Definitely ready to party, Jacobina brought neon and silver to the fore, as we watched a collection consisting of see-through plastic, fur, and what appeared to be scales, in place of skin. There was a definite aquatic theme throughout, as I noticed what appeared to be several Octopi in neon pink and orange, as well as what I think were either algae, jellyfish or even a Portuguese man o' war...? I am always the first to say that you cannot detrite someone's vision, but she even lost me with that one! There were silver sequins on white jersey-like material, which made up leggings underneath wide-leg culottes, and they appeared to be covered in neon-coloured stripes. I applaud the daring, I thought the models with their bare, vaselined faces, white wigs, and 'BEAM' trainers that lit up around the soles with each step, were the most outlandish and visually interesting yet, but I'm afraid that the collection was also not for me.

Ester Kubisz


Ester Kubisz
Rounding things off, Kubisz had the most calm, immediately wearable collection of the four. Unisex in her monotone palette of black, white and grey, the mostly masculine line consisted of jackets, shirts, shorts, and trousers; but it was in the frayed edges where she found her mangled edge. Not particularly mindblowing to me, I found that there was little to make me think about what I was seeing. For all intents and purposes, each of the previous collections had brought ideas of something to mind, and I'm very sad to say that the most this made me think of was Christian Bale in American Psycho - this wardrobe would be perfect for him. I could even see Reese Witherspoon in the female version of the shorts. I don't necessarily know if that's a good thing? Hey, at least that means it's wearable, right? I see these, more than any others, playing out in everyday life - just not mine.

The show now finished, I breathed a sigh of relief that no-one was harmed by my chair, and went back to focusing on getting out of this mini-cavern I had fallen into. Burly returned and, fast becoming my new best friend, began maneuvering my wheels to get me back onto level ground which, to my shock, eventually worked! Thanking him sincerely, he asked me if I was going to be back for any additional shows, and I informed him who I would be seeing later. He offered to arrange a space for me, and dare I say it, I think I left the room (post Tom Daley selfie), with us being firm friends.

To the exhibition hall we headed, so that I could backup my photos on 'The Bayby' (my miniature notebook), but before we could get that far, I marvelled at how things had changed in the past five seasons; no longer a charging station, the cloakroom area had been overtaken by sponsors Crabtree & Evelyn, who set up shop with quite the natural environment for visitors to grab complimentary hand massages, or just sit and relax! I could've keeled over in shock. As I listened to Ana babble infectiously about how amazing her first fashion show was, I couldn't help but smile, until I felt myself get overly emotional. I realised that I was back in the building, and achieved what I thought I never would again. Despite the odds and adversities, I was here; and even if I couldn't make it all the way to my last show of the day, the fact that I had made it this far was enough for me, I could go home disappointed that I hadn't completed the day, but pleased and proud that I had made it over the first hurdle. No-one would ever be able to take that away from me, the victory was all my own.

Deciding to push on, having backed up my photos for safety, and taken my next round of painkillers to target the struggles that I was already feeling, I told Ana that it was time to get ready for the next show. Remembering Burly had told me to be outside the next hall ten minutes early, I suggested that we saw to our needs and got going, so that's what we did. Outside of the gallery even earlier than told, Burly led me through and perched me in a prime spot at the end of the catwalk. "This better for your shots?" He asked, at which I was hardpressed not to plant a wet, sloppy one on his cheek. Since I couldn't reach him, I gave him a good view of my pearly whites instead and, if I'm not mistaken, won him over with my charm. Trying to ease the worsening pain in my legs, I got Ana to take my legs down from the incorrectly placed footplates, which force my legs and hips into an unnatural position, and therefore cause me additional pain on top of the aches and waves that I was feeling, and got as comfortable as they would allow for the show. Before I knew it, the lights went down, and the works of Rocky Star paraded down the catwalk...

Rocky Star

Finally - this was what I came here to see! With every model that approached, the work became more intrinsic, and beautiful. The embroidery and patterns were beautiful, Herculean feats of artistry. The Middle Eastern vibe of the models added cultural depth, and the richness of the silks, satin, chiffon, brocade, patterns, ruching, and ruffles, were absolutely intoxicating. Each design made the wearer look like a Goddess, so deeply textural were the pieces. Honestly, there was not one creation that did not make me marvel in wonder. I loved Star's use of colour - though flesh-toned and darker in some places, all served to add to the wealth of the garment. Models wore slicked back ponytails, with smokey eyes and nude lips, there was an effortless beauty to each, as the clothing did all the work. Where headpieces or statement embellished earrings were worn, they only added to the experience - and that, the showing was. It was far more than just a catwalk; the showing was a journey that Star took his viewers on, and with the degree of beauty that I saw - it's safe to say that the whole affair was a rousing success.



Moving off to the vestibule - the only venue I have ever seen this lady show at, I waited in amused anticipation for Pam Hogg. Always a showstopper, my beloved Portia moved me from where Burly initially put me, guiding me to the end of the catwalk, right by the photographer's pit (my favourite spot); and had me placed perfectly to celebrity-spot. Starting with All Saints alum Melanie Blatt, whose daughter I remember being born, now walking in the show for, I believe, her third season straight, I felt myself age under the burning lights. Of course, the show was running late (as expected), and I discreetly asked a passing Security Guard whether they expect this late start every year, to which I was informed that not only do they expect it, but it's their collective most hated show, every season!

Chuckling to myself, I watched the 'celebs' like TOWIE/MIC regulars, awful excuses for tattooed Rappers, pretty up and coming singers, and the like, have their moments in front of the flashing bulbs. Others hob-nobbed, and I got chatting to my skilled neighbour; a talented artist who would do the most interesting interpretations of the pieces with various sized felt pens, and great big sheets of brown paper. She told me that she misses half of the collection in the time that it takes her to draw but, looking down and seeing the fruits of her labours, I had to say that it was L'Oreal worth it. Chatting to Ana next, and getting to know her a bit better, we were just laughing over a shared joke, when suddenly, the lights went down (early)!

Pam Hogg


As always, some dramatic punk music started, and some models descended in pvc and what appeared to be leather dresses; followed by skin tight shiny one pieces of varied forms, jumpsuits, leotards, and two pieces that involved shorts that let bum flesh hang out. Expecting nothing less, but also knowing that I had seen it all before, I almost started snapping on autopilot, and instead paying more attention to the drawings by my neighbour. Then something extraordinary happened. A wearable piece of art came floating down the runway...non extrovert material, it was a beautiful chiffon playsuit, in a gorgeous coral shade that, if I had the figure, even I would wear - and that's the first time that I have ever thought that about a piece of Pam Hogg couture!

Pam Hogg
Utterly flabbergasted, I looked around to see if anyone else shared my sentiment. Nobody else seemed to, so I simply sat in quiet shock. This was the most eclectic collection that I had ever seen from Hogg, and I wasn't quite sure what to make of it? Entitled 'Great Expectations', I was confused, because if anything, what I was seeing was more Alice In Wonderland, with the peplum upper arm sleeves, and the tulle skirts. There was also lurex and other shiny materials, platform shoes without heels, and a lot of big hair - whether it be by big, bright rolled curls pinned into place, or white afro wigs. There were more sprinklings of the chiffon designs, in the form of a black calf-length dress, with a waist-deep cleavage dip, a soft pink peplum blouse, a white ruched dress, cut with angel wings, and a see-through skirt layer. The patterns are not reminiscent of anything that I recognise, but interesting none the less (for the most part).

Before I knew it, the show was over, and that was the end of my first day at London Fashion Week - but my, what a day it was...


That's all for this week folx, thanks for your patience whilst I battle through this sick phase. Look out for Part Two next week.

Until the next...

ES














Photos courtesy of EricaSharlette for EricaSharlette Promotions Ltd. and POP PR.